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What's The Proper Leveling Procedure for a Travel Trailer
What's The Proper Leveling Procedure for a Travel Trailer
How to Level a Travel Trailer
How to Level a Travel Trailer or Fifth Wheel
ANSWER: The simple rule of leveling a Travel Trailer or 5th Wheel is to level side to side first and then level front to back. It sounds easy, but it can be frustrating when you first start doing it. I will tell you that it will become quite easy after you have done it a couple of times.
Step by Step Leveling Instructions
Your RV should have some type of RV Level Indicators, if not you should install some on the outside of your trailer, so you can use them to get the trailer level rather than having to go in and out of the trailer to check the level.
Depending on how level your campsite is, you may have to pull the trailer up on some Leveling Blocks to get the sides of the trailer level. By adding or removing blocks, you should be able to get it Level. If your trailer has any slide outs, they should remain closed until the trailer is fully level and stabilized.
Now that you have it level as possible use Tire Chocks (pictured above) to chock the trailer wheels.
Level Front to Back
Use Tongue Jack
Now you can unhook your trailer and use the Tongue Jack to level the trailer front to rear. Finally, you can deploy the trailer stabilizers. The scissor stabilizers are only designed to keep the trailer stable, and they should not be used to level the trailer as they could damage the stabilizers or the frame of your trailer.
Use Jack
Pads to Protect Stabilizers and Tongue Jack
If your Tongue Jack and stabilizer Jacks must travel a long way down, it can stress them or damage them. To prevent damage, you should pile up some RV Jack Pads or pieces of board to decrease the distance that your jacks travel. It is good practice always to have at least one jack pad under each jack so that the jacks do not sink into the ground or cause damage to the surface of the ground they are sitting on.
Once the trailer is leveled, you can open any slide outs your trailer may have and deploy the slide out stabilizers (if so equipped).
Use Leveling Systems to Make Leveling Your RV Easier
As you can see it may take a couple of times to get used to leveling your trailer, but I can guarantee that will a little practice and a little time it will become a routine task. Happy RVing
Comments for What's The Proper Leveling Procedure for a Travel Trailer
I have a 36" Keystone Sprinter 2018 Travel Trailer. I am also new to this. Do you have to re-level at anytime? I am currently full time living and trailer has been sitting for a couple of months.
Having a tandem "dual axle" trailer, I use "X Braces" between my wheels to help with stabilizing and potential shifting/back&forth movement of the RV. These x braces apply pressure to both wheels in the form of an X and are easily installed & removed with the ratchet wrench supplied with them. Hope this helps.
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ease of leveling an rv by: rver4life
Hi, the posts here are great and very accurate. However, there is no post discussing the front Jack's on a 5th wheel. I own a 34' 5th wheel, I have the Anderson leveling ramps, which are so easy to use. I also made blocks to place under the stabilizers under each of the back stabilizers as well as the front legs. These blocks are made of 3 4x4 treated posts cut to 10.5 inches with treated 5/8" plywood cut to 12"x12"on top & bottom of the blocks all screwed together with stainless screws. I also cut some 5/8"&1/4" "shims" with the leftover plywood to match the plywood tops. With the front jack legs on a 5th wheel they come down at the same elevation, this means that one leg will be closer to the block or ground than the other. I use the shims to void this gap and even the pressure applied to the front jack legs. You will need these to prevent damage to the front jack legs when leveling as most older 5th wheel do not have independent front leveling Jack's. If you need detailed info on the blocks, please email me @ rmay5296@gmail.com Hope this helps.
Hi, For one axle camping trailer, I use a leveling wheel jack by BAL for side to side. You slide under one wheel & use the supplied wrench to level the trailer & then you level the tongue from front to back. No need for blocks. You can check the video on youtube.
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leveling by: Anonymous
I do not like the plastic blocks for leveling on parking spots other than on pavement, cement or level gravel. They tend to twist, bend and brake. I think I am going back to wood ramps or try to cut up a horse stall mat to level with. Have fun! Just make sure you block the tires before you unhitch. I always put the tow vehicle in neutral and let the rig rest against the blocks before I unhook. Also make sure you unhook the safety chains and plug before you pull away. A neighbor tried to pull away with the chains still attached and made a big mess of things. Happy RVing and just use your thinker, all will work out for you.
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Easy leveling! by: Barry
We bought one of those large, readable, stick-on levels and attached it to the trailer front. (This can be easily seen from the drivers position inside the car). We first made sure our refrigerator was checked for level (with a 1 ft. contractor's level), as it is the one component that requires a level position in order to operate appropriately. Next, we attached the large, side to side level to the front of the trailer in a position which is easy to read from the driver's seat. Leveling goes very quickly now with no more running inside the trailer to get a reading. Same with front to back, attached to the side of the trailer with similar calibration.
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better way to level trailer by: Anonymous aaaaaaaaaaaatexan
First, forget about those cheap stick on levels for the outside of the trailer. How do you know the trailer is level when you stick them onto the trailer? Buy a METAL 4' carpenter level. 1. Park the trailer where you want to leave it at the campsite. 2.Make sure your power cord is long enough to reach the pedestal from this location, or it is going to be a waste of time leveling your trailer only to find out you won't have power. 3. Using the 4" carpenters level, hold it vertically (up) with the horizontal (side way)tube at the top of the level against the drivers side of the trailer near the middle of the trailer length. 4. Looking at the top tube, if the bubble is toward the trailer move the bottom of the level out until the bubble is in between the two marks in the top tube. This will let you know that the drivers side wheels on the trailer need to be raised on blocks. If the bubble is away from the trailer, then the passenger side tires will need to be raised. 5. Place your blocks next to the tires that need to be raised BEFORE you pull the trailer forward. After you pull forward enough, move the blocks behind the wheels in the same location that you had them next to the tires and back up. This way you will be in the same position as you were when you first put the trailer where you wanted it.
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Happy spouse. by: Anonymous
Fridge, stove, floor, and counter are all within a few degrees of each other. The wife insists on a level cook stove for the frying pan so the grease doesn't gayer in one area. So I use that as my level point and then installed outside levels. Happy spouse.
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level by: Susan
Do you use these on both sides of the camper?
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Leveling by: Joe
If you have a Trailer where you have just the axle wheels and the crank-jack on the front with the four stabilizers on the corners... Remember they are Stabilizers, not jacks, so don't try to level with them, just get them to seat firmly AFTER you level to keep everything stable. Do not be tempted to crank them more to balance the trailer, they will bend. Plus, raising or lowering a single corner at a time is not a good idea unless you have a level on the front and back and compare them to make sure you are not Twisting your frame. The typical RV fridge needs to be level to within about 3 degrees to function properly.
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Easier Leveling by: Joe
I use the RV LEVEL (search for MadeByJoe on Amazon) to view my levels while adjusting. No more running around looking at bubble levels. Super convenient.
Contrary to what some may tell you, the trailer does not have to be perfectly level. Getting it close is OK. I carry a couple of 2x8's to go under the tires for side to side leveling. I angled the ends to make the tire ride up more easily. This should get you ball-parked in.
Front to rear is a breeze with the front jack - however - I still carry a chunk of 6x6 to rest the bottom of the jack on. For stability, it is best to keep the jack length as short as possible.
If you are going to use wood to level, I would recommend using pressure treated.
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stabilizer jacks by: Anonymous
The trailer needs to be leveled side to side first, by using levelers under the low side tires. The use of a level mounted on the front of the trailer makes this easier. Place chocks.The trailer can then be unhitched and leveled front to back using the front hitch jack. The stabilizer jacks can now be lowered until they are snug. Any slides can now be deployed. stabilizer jacks are designed to stabilize, not for leveling.
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Leveling by: Anonymous
It should be noted that the scissor jacks & other jacks found on travel trailers & 5th wheels are STABILIZERS not LEVELING JACKS. Trying to lift the corner of a 5000 to 12000 unit will give you more than bent stabilizers, it will probably give you a combination of back problems and torn rotator cuffs.
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Leveling with a slide? by: Anonymous
What about if you have a slide? Should you extend the slide first before leveling or should you extend it after you level and run your jack stands down?
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travel trailer jack system by: Anonymous
a friend of mine just bought a 2003 travel trailer and it did not come with the toolfor leveling the trailer. The jack stands are bolted to the frame on all 4 corners. The leg that goes to the ground has a metal disc about 7 inches round on the jack stand system. I will call it a treaded rod is incased in a metal housing with about 6 inches showing. This screw rod has a groove made in it that the tool would lock on to and then turn it to bring down the leg. He had to use a pair of channel locks to get the screw to turn. Where can you purchase and what is the type of handle called.
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